5 Skincare ‘Rules’ You Should Probably Start Breaking

A simple Google search of the words “skin care” yields a staggering 648,000,000 results.

I’m no rocket scientist (merely a humble beauty writer), but even to me, that is a lot. So it’s really no wonder people are confused.

There are two schools of thought around skincare 'rules'. On the one hand, there's no real “one-size-fits-all” approach when it comes to looking after your skin. There are, however, certain best practices that guide what we do, buy and apply to our faces.

Some are ‘rules’ for a reason, like applying *sunscreen every single day to protect against skin cancer and the signs of ageing, and not using all of the active skincare ingredients in one routine.

Others are either outdated, too simplistic, or originated in the depths of a Reddit forum and have somehow made their way into our bathrooms. 

To help cut through the BS, I spoke to a few skin experts that A) know their stuff and B) aren’t afraid to tell it like it is.

Keep scrolling for their thoughts on skincare rules that were made to be broken.

Rule 1. Use Cleanser Morning & Night.

True or false? A bit of both.

What the experts say:

According to PhD-qualified scientist and science educator Dr. Michele Squire, we should all be washing our faces morning and night... but it doesn't always need to be done using an actual cleanser.

“If you have an impaired skin barrier (dry, hormone-deficient, sensitive skin, rosacea), cleansing with warm water and your fingers or a soft cloth is plenty in the morning to remove excess product but leave your natural lipids intact. Acne-prone or oily skin types should still use a gentle cleanser twice daily, though."

You can learn more about how to cleanse properly and the best cleanser for your skin type in this YouTube video below.

Rule 2. Don't Squeeze Pimples!

True or false? False, but proceed with caution.

What the experts say:

Ever the realist, Dr. Squire believes while it would be best practice to have a trained professional extract all our whiteheads, that’s never going to happen.

Instead, she has some advice for how to pop a pimple at home:

“Wash your hands first, and know when to stop. If a pimple doesn’t pop with gentle pressure, then back away... I recommend using a hydrocolloid pimple patch like COSRX Clear Fit Master Patch to gently draw it out."

"Picking at blind lumps will always end in disaster... you can easily push the infection deep into the skin, and cause scarring!"

Dermal therapist, beauty journalist and BeautyIQ contributor Yadira Cauchi also recommends popping pimple patches over blemishes that aren't ready to keep bacteria out, and to stop you from picking. Her pimple-popping advice?

"Take a hot, steamy shower and carefully cleanse the affected area with a gentle cleanser. With clean hands, surround your pimple with a cotton swab (you can cover your fingertips with clean tissues too)."

"Gently squeeze the infection out and stop when you see clear fluid or blood. Apply a spot treatment to the affected area like Aspect Stop Spot - this non-irritating, non-drying formula contains exfoliating salicylic acid and niacinamide to help heal your skin."

For more advice on navigating blemishes, watch our pimple YouTube video below.

Rule 3. Alcohol in Skin Care Is BAD. 

True or false? It's complicated...

What the experts say:

You can thank astringent, harsh toners (remember those?!) for the myths and misunderstanding around products containing alcohol.

Whether or not you should avoid alcohol in skin care depends on two things: your skin type, and the alcohol in question.

Dr. Squire says "dry, sensitive, reactive skin types will feel dryer and appear redder using products high in ‘drying’ alcohols including ethanol, SD alcohol, denatured alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, isopropanol. So steer clear if a product smells ‘alcohol-ly’."

If these ingredients are further down the ingredients listing and are buffered in formulas that also contain moisturising ingredients, she says it shouldn’t be a concern.

Also, remember not all alcohols are drying! Fatty alcohols such as etyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol are actually great for the skin.

And when in doubt, if your face feels red, burns or tightens after applying something with alcohol, it’s probably not for you.

Rule 4. Don't Use Face Oils if You Have Oily Skin.

True or false? False!

What the experts say:

It’s easy to assume the last thing oily skin needs is more oil, but in some cases, it can actually be beneficial.

As Dr. Michelle Wong from Lab Muffin Beauty Science explains on Adore's Skincare School podcast, "the right oil for your skin type can work to help regulate oil flow."

Dr. Squire agrees, saying oils high in linoleic acid – such as rosehip oil products like Pai Rosehip BioRegenerate Oil – are particularly beneficial for acne-prone skin.

She reminds us though that “oil doesn’t take the place of moisturisers, which are designed to add and keep water in the skin – something that anyone with dry skin from acne treatment will benefit from."

You can learn more about managing acne-prone skin in this episode of the Skincare School podcast below.

Rule 5. Physical Face Scrubs Are Bad For Skin.

True or false? Mostly false (but a little bit true).

What the experts say:

Physical scrubs are abrasive (looking at you, St. Ives Apricot Scrub), but that’s how they work to remove dead skin cells.

Dr. Squire tells us there's actually “zero scientific evidence" to support the theory physical or manual exfoliation can cause micro-tears in the skin, but it is easy to over-exfoliate and cause irritation if you go too hard.

If you like the feeling of manual exfoliation, go for one like Sodashi Enzyme Face Polish or Skin Virtue Pure Exfoliating Mask 75ml that's formulated to be gentle and/or combines multiple forms of exfoliation like chemical exfoliation, physical exfoliation and enzymatic exfoliation.

Find out the difference between these types of exfoliation (and which one's best for you) in our YouTube video below.

And finally, while articles like this one on the internet informed by experts (v. important detail) are helpful, they can't replace personalised, professional advice.

If in doubt, go and have a skin professional like a dermatologist or dermal therapist assess your individual skin type and concerns.

Actually, it's always a good idea.

Want more expert skincare advice? Check out these articles below:

• A Skin Expert Answers the Top 7 Most Googled Skincare Questions

• Exactly How a Dermal Therapist Would Get Rid Of a Pimple ASAP

• An Expert Rates 5 TikTok Skincare Trends From Genius to Seriously Dangerous

• I’m a Dermal Therapist and This Is How I'd Build a Skincare Routine for Less Than $100

*SPF is only one part of sun protection! Always seek shade, and wear sunnies, a hat and protective clothing. Use sufficient sunscreen for all unprotected areas and reapply sunscreen as directed. Always read the label.